The Review and the Reply

Casa Jade, Santa Cruz La Laguna, Lake Atitlán. Rating: 1 out of 5. "Beautiful lake, impossible to sleep." Review by Gareth K., Toronto.

"I've stayed in a lot of hotels, and I honestly think this one needs some changes. First, there's a rooster next door that starts crowing at four in the morning. Every morning. Second, at about five thirty, boats start passing right under my window, and they're louder than a truck. Third, a strong wind came up every afternoon, and on my last day my towel ended up in the lake. In my opinion, a hotel that calls itself 'peaceful' shouldn't have these problems. The breakfast was excellent, but that isn't enough."

Reply from Rosalba Tuj, owner of Casa Jade: "Dear Gareth, thank you for staying with us, and I'm sorry you went home so tired. I'd like to answer each point, because, to be fair, every one of them is true.

"The rooster. His name is Don Chepe, and he belongs to my neighbor, not to me. I've offered to buy him twice, and twice she has said no. Here most people get up before five to work in the fields. For them, Don Chepe is an alarm clock that has never needed batteries.

"The boats. Santa Cruz is easiest to reach by water, so the boats are our buses. The first one leaves at five thirty and takes people to work and to the market in Panajachel. I've asked the drivers to slow down near the hotel, and some of them actually do.

"The wind. It's called the Xocomil, and it has blown across Lake Atitlán on most afternoons for longer than anyone can remember. I'm afraid I can't stop it, but since your visit I've put clothespins on every balcony. A fisherman found your towel the next morning, and it's waiting for you at the front desk.

"I believe 'peaceful' doesn't have to mean silent. Here it means a rooster, the morning boats, the afternoon wind, and three volcanoes watching it all. If you ever come back, ask for room 6. It's the farthest from the water and from Don Chepe."

Update from Gareth K., posted one week later: "I've changed my rating to 4 out of 5. I've also booked room 6 for next August, for two weeks this time. Please tell Don Chepe that I'm bringing earplugs. And please keep my towel at the front desk. I'm coming back for it."